Burberry's Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, marked a pivotal moment for the brand under the creative direction of Christopher Bailey. It was a show that beautifully balanced the house's heritage with a contemporary edge, showcasing a sophisticated yet rebellious spirit that resonated deeply with both established and emerging audiences. This collection wasn't just about clothes; it was a statement, a reflection of a changing world and the evolving identity of a British institution.
Bailey, having helmed Burberry for over seventeen years, infused this collection with a palpable sense of nostalgia, yet avoided the pitfall of mere retrospection. Instead, he masterfully reinterpreted classic Burberry codes – the iconic check, trench coats, and equestrian influences – through a modern lens, creating pieces that felt both timeless and utterly relevant. The show itself was a theatrical experience, blurring the lines between runway and performance art, further emphasizing the collection's multifaceted nature.
A Tapestry of Textures and Tones:
The color palette was a study in contrasts, ranging from rich, earthy tones like deep burgundy, forest green, and ochre to vibrant pops of fuchsia, electric blue, and fiery orange. These bold hues were often juxtaposed against more muted shades of beige, grey, and navy, creating a dynamic visual interplay that mirrored the collection's blend of classic and contemporary elements.
Textures played a crucial role in achieving this balance. The collection featured a diverse range of fabrics, from luxurious cashmere and soft wool to durable gabardine and richly textured velvet. These diverse materials were expertly combined to create pieces that were both visually striking and tactilely appealing. The iconic Burberry check, often presented in its traditional beige, red, and black iteration, was reimagined in a variety of unexpected ways. It appeared on everything from oversized scarves and tailored coats to sleek dresses and even footwear, showcasing its versatility and enduring appeal. The check was also deconstructed and reassembled, appearing as fragmented prints and intricate embroideries, adding a layer of modern sophistication to this classic motif.
Silhouettes: A Fusion of Structure and Fluidity:
The silhouettes were equally diverse, reflecting the multifaceted nature of the collection. Tailored pieces, such as impeccably cut trench coats, sharp-shouldered blazers, and impeccably fitted trousers, formed the backbone of the collection, showcasing Burberry's mastery of traditional tailoring. These structured pieces were often paired with more fluid garments, like flowing maxi dresses, draped skirts, and oversized knitwear, creating a compelling interplay between structure and fluidity.
The trench coat, a signature Burberry piece, was reinterpreted in numerous ways. Classic styles were presented alongside more modern iterations, featuring asymmetric cuts, unexpected embellishments, and bold color combinations. Some trench coats were elongated and dramatically draped, while others were cropped and paired with high-waisted trousers, showcasing the versatility of this iconic garment.
Knitwear played a significant role in the collection, with oversized sweaters, chunky cardigans, and intricately patterned pullovers offering a sense of cozy comfort. These pieces were often layered over tailored garments or worn with flowing skirts, adding texture and warmth to the overall aesthetic.
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